Dane hopped the fence!!!!

Question:

HOWEDY Tracy,

> What I meant by won’t use physical discipline is that I won’t > beat him or slap him and stuff like that.

You don’t got to do that. You can use a slingsho or BB gun like it sez in our koehler books. > What kind of corrections are you suggesting

I suggest if you give your dog any corrections you got a pretty good chance you’ll TEACH HIM HOWE to correct you or your Mrs. or your kids and then you’re FUCKED. I figure if makin intelligence and sense of human decency won’t work with you appealing to your cowardice certainly will work cause at least we got enough material to work with. > other than what I just mentioned,

Lets start off lookin at this problem realistically. If you provoke this Great Dane he’s liable to turn around one day and mop the floor with you or whomever he gets frustrated with as a result of you teaching him DISCIPLINE. That’s called allelomimetic behavior. > or an invisible fence?

Read "my golden retriever bit the ups driver" and liea’s "1 step forward." > What did people do before the invisible fence came about?

Same thing they do now. WORRY ABOUT NOT BEING ABLE TO TRAIN THEIR DOGS NOT TO RUN AWAY CAUSE THEY WON’T STOP HURTIN AND INTIMIDATING THEM. > I know there are dogs out there that > won’t leave the property at all without fences or chains of any kind.

Yeah. Like my students. > How did they learn to do that?

It’s all taught for FREE in your FREE copy of my FREE Wits’ End Dog Training method manual available for FREE at http://www.doggydoright.com But don’t go there, look on the ng this week for an attached manual. > If you don’t want the dog to go on the > furniture,can you train him to do that without the > "physical" corrections that I mentioned?

It’d be stupid to try to punish a dog that’s liable to be bigger than you in a few months. > If so, how can I get him to simply stay off of the top of > the fence in the same manner?

Amazing! You see the similarity! Excellent. Now all you got to do is read the manual and you’ll have the answers and you’ll never need a trainer for another animal problem. > Therefore if someone out there has a way to train,

Yeah. My students are 100% successful and our dog lovers call them liars paid shills for Jerry sock puppets and animal fuckers. They’re goin goddamned blind with rage that ALL my studentse come in stating their problem read my manual and write back a couple days later "Thanks Jerry," and we don’t hear from them again cause they’re DONE. > and I should add "correct" him in a manner other than the > invisible fence, I would appreciate the suggestions.

Our dog lovers don’t got no advice except to call Jerry a liar and tell you to killfile me cause I prove them to be lying dog abusing Thugs. I got no use for you or your dog, so you can do whatever the heel you like. I’ll get my kicks anyHOWE, one way or the other. You can become one of my 100% successful students and border train your dog in a couple days for FREE without punishment or you can follow the advice of these sorry bastards that only know HOWE to HURT and INTIMIDATE and lock dogs up and when your Dane’s had enough of that crap I’ll get to taunt you as you run to the vets to have you dangerous dog killed It’s a Jerry CONVENTION. Ask tara o. I even offered to give her dog Summer a PERMENANT HOWES with my family… where she’d never be punished or threatened. tara killed Summer anyHOWE, cause Summer TRUSTED HER. > Thanks

Watch this, bonesie: > Hi, Bones… > Sorry if I came on a little strong –

What strong? You’re a lying dog abusing Thug. > I didn’t realize what you meant by "physical corrections."

Right. There’s so much confusion. NOBODY here HURTS dogs to train them. > I do use physical corrections,

But they don’t HURT. > but that sure doesn’t include beating or slapping!

That’s right. professora gingold sez "chin CHUCK absolutely doesn’t mean SLAP." > To my mind,

BWWWWAHAHAHAHAHAAAAAA!!! You’re a brainless lyin dog abusing Thug. > a physical correction includes any sort of correction > that involves touch – including but not limited to collar corrections,

Sorry, there’s no shades of gray. Either you’re using appropriate non force non confrontational method or you’re teaching your dog to do the same things back to your and others and making an enemy of your dog. > touching pressure points, scruff shakes and the like.

No, we DON’T LIKE. That’s what makes our professor lying doc SCRUFF SHAKE and scream NO into its face for 5 seconds dermer’s little dog Maxie Pads jerk off on his couch pillows if IT misses his 5 miles of daily bicycle exercise. > Non-physical corrections would be shouting,

Physical opposition works equally well as emotional opposition. They both trigger the opposition reflex. > throwing a shaker can with pennies (startling),

NO. YOU use the throw can to intimidate. I teach my students to use a brief varilble distraction followed instantly by prolonged non physical praise. There’s no intent or desire to intimidate or correct, just to distract and praise. We can use ANY sound, so long as it’s variable and the technique is followed properly. > time-outs (in a crate or separate room),

That’s rather stupid. Dogs do not appreciate time, and the separation under stress only allows them to brood over their difficulty, and further anger them. There’s no training there, only moore anxiety. > taste corrections (using bitter sprays or hot sauces on objects > not to be chewed on),

NO. Those do not correct, they prevent, and the desire to chew the item simply changes to untreated objects as substitutes. There’s NO TRAINING there, just MOORE anxiety. > sounds corrections (like sonic bark collars), etc.

NO. Those do not correct, they aggrevate and often make the dog bark back at them. > Now that we’re speaking the same language <g>,

You’ve got dogs in treatment right now at Purdue behavior clinic for OCD because of your punishment. > if you’re willing to give collar corrections,

HOWE many dogs have you killed cause you’ve made them vicious? > you can try boundary training.

Is that so? I train dogs from sittin right here stark ravin nekkid and nobody hurts nobody and everybody gets trained EXACTLY the same, all over the world, for FREE. > You can do a search for articles on the web for the term: > "boundary training" dogs and find > a lot of information. Here’s a brief article which explains it: > http://www.metrokc.gov/lars/animal/Educate/cassidy/dog/dog30.htm

I didn’t find the fence thingy, but the basics of her approache is to yell STOP IT and tell IT to sit… the results of that approach are: "You can keep him off of the counters and furniture when you are not at home by using a vibration alarm." BWWWWAWHAHAHAHAAAAA!!! > Another one here: > http://www.softcom.net/users/aprilr/tips.htm

"Pups that are high drive, very assertive and pushy may need a more physical method. A voice correction or a physical reminder along the lines of what a mama dog would do may be in order. Try holding the skin of pup’s upper lip with your fingers, or wedging a bent forefinger in the pup’s mouth preventing closure, or encircle the muzzle with your thumb and index finger, holding the mouth gently closed. After watching my adult female successfully "correct" an obnoxious pup without any harm, I discovered an excellent physical correction for two of my own "very bitey and hurtful" pups. With my thumb and index finger making a "V," I would surprise the gnawing pup by quickly placing and holding the "V" at the base of the muzzle with fingertip and thumbtip touching the ground, not letting pup’s head move until she relaxed. The gesture brought instant success. It does not hurt the puppy at all, and sure got their respect, just like with a mama dog." I suggest if you’re gonna act like a momma dog, start by lickin the puppys butt for four or five weeks first to earn the right. FurterMOORE, studies have shown that aggressive mom dog behavior makes aggressive puppys. The idea is DO NOT DO ANYTHING YOU DON’T WANT YOUR DOG TO DO BACK TO YOU OR YOUR FAMILY. SHIT ROLLS DOWN HILL. > It’s pretty simple,

It’s even simpler than that, but you got to learn to not hurt your dog till you get IT trained or you won’t get IT trained cause you’re hurting your dog. We call that Catch22, dog lovers. > but it takes time and consistency.

Takes my students a couple minutes over a couple days. Ask Misty and Paul, they’ve done it. > You would do well to train your dog to avoid touching the > fence in any way – same as boundary training,

As taught in your FREE copy of my FREE Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual. > but if he so much as reaches over and touches the > fence with his nose (or any part of his body), give him a collar > correction and tell him "no touch" or something similar.

A respectable Dane might reach over and grab you by the top of your skull and try crushin it for ya… dirtbag. > Even so, if there is a really strong attraction on the other side of the > fence, he will probably clear it unless he’s a REALLY great dog,

No. Dog training isn’t LUCK. It only takes a couple minutes, MAYBE ONLY ONE DISTRACTION AND PRAISE for each side! O.K.? Is that TOO MUCH for our lying dog abusing Thugs to believe? I’ve got dogs that I can demonstrate that with right now in several countries all over the world with my students I’ve trained from sittin right here stark ravin nekkid. > so I’d still consider replacing the fence with something higher or > reinforicing the boundary with an electronic containment system.

Yeah, cause you’re a idiot, a liar, a dog abuser, and a coward. > As I understand it, as the dog approaches the boundary (which is > marked by flags at first), he will not get a shock, but a "tingle."

CAN YOU SPELL IDIOTO? – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> That is his warning that if he goes

Response:

HOWEDY bones,

> Nope, can’t build the fence higher because it

Cause it ain’t necessary. > is chain link and 500 feet of it.

Well, that’s irrelevant cause we don’t NEED the fence. Dogs are territorial and EZily learn their distances. > If you know the size of a Dane,

I grew up in a Dane kennel. > you will realize that they will trample almost any shrub.

Like any dog. A dog is a dog, unless you’re lookin for certain qualites like greater weight and a lower center of gravity for a moore effective manstopper. > I need to train my dog to not jump over or even on the fence.

That’s EZ. Takes a couple minutes over a couple days, that’s all. > I don’t want to use an invisible fence because Danes are really > sensitive if you don’t know that already.

Like any dog. A dog is a dog. There isn’t a dog in creation that needs pain and intimidation to learn anything. Our experts are lying dog abusing Thugs. > They may look tough but they take things to heart.

Yeah, like me. > My dogs are very spoiled too, (also have a very small shih > tzu) and we don’t use physical discipline on them and I hate > to say it but they get away with a lot because we are not > consistent with our training.

WHAAAAT training? Bribes? > Which is obviously part of the problem.

Naah. That IS the problem. > But I don’t think I know what to train him with anyway.

Everything you need to know is available for FREE in your FREE copy of my FREE Wits’ End Dog Training Method manual available for FREE at http://www.doggydoright.com > What I am looking for is a way to teach him not to jump on > or over the fence.

NO PROBLEM. > Especially when he is all worked up when he sees a > dog in the yard and the like.

Well, that’s not a fence problem except that the fence causes a barrier frustration syndrome which in itself can make the dog aggressive as happens occasionally with crating like what got Summer dead. > (He did go to training when he was young and at the same time > socialized with other dogs.)

INDEED. That’s probably HOWE COME he’s aggressive towards other dogs and the like… > I guess this is for Jerry. I did read that Wit’s End thing a little and the > 3 feet from the fence rule and I don’t really get what it means to alternate > the direction of the sound.

Oh, that was in the parts where you didn’t read a little. > (i.e. make the sound from you on one occasion and then > make the sound from the "ground" in front of the dog the next > occasion).

Almost. It sez in the part that discusses that which comes after the other parts that insure that part will do it’s part…like behaviors, all the parts are related and function or not depending on HOWE many of them are in force and what their role is in a particular behavior. > Thanks

All behavior problems are dealt with the same way. The technique is a gestalt. Everything pulls together to instantly break or teach almost any behavior. I recommend you download the FREE text to speech reader at http://www.readplease.com and review the text as it plays to you audibly. Then do the practices and the exercises as instructed, and you’ll SEE everything pull together and you’ll have your dog trained to your liking in about one week. There’s NOTHING faster or MOORE effective except my forthcoming interactive trainer in your head program… stick around. My next machine will teach you and your dog SIMULTANEOUSLY with no prior instruction. But that’s gonna cost and it’s not gonna be in time for training you and your dog.

– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> We just installed a PetSafe brand fence this Spring. > Two dogs, two collars We now have one dog and no > collars. > Peach and Zelda would run thru the fence, not want to > come back in the yard and would run for days. The > last time, Peach didn’t come back home. > I used the Wit’s End Training Manual to learn how to > train my dog. She is now border trained. A few > minutes each day reinforces her desire to stay in the > yard. > She no longer runs out into the road, I can stop her > from chasing cats and she no longer cringes when we > walk around the yard. > I can not say loud or long enough how much I hate the > e-fence and its collars. If you can’t get a regular fence > then you need to train your dog. I will never rely on an > electronic collar to keep my dog in our yard again. > The price was too high:-( > ~misty

> I don’tk now whether Peach is dead or alive. I do know she’s not here > with us. I really can’t blame anyone here for her loss. I’m the one > who ignored your advice. I did it because of how you write/wrote. I > was unwilling to accept the idea that my using a shock collar could have > any bearing on Peach not wanting to stay home. Up until I started using > it my main concern had been keeping my dogs in their own yard. Once I > started using the e-fence…well, then my concern became how to keep > them from running off for days on end. > I lost valuable training time becoming embroiled in the anti-shock > debate and the "Jerry sux" tirades. > I lost one dog but I have the bestest dog in the world now <g> A Wits > End Trained dog, one who is completely housetrained, doesn’t chew up > stuff, stays in the yard, and doesn’t bark all the time. IOW a great > companion and friend. > Thanks Jerry!

> I haven’t quite finished reading the FREE Wits’ End > Dog Training Method manual, but it already worked > miracles with our three dogs > The barking at the door has diminished so much that, > well, frankly, we’re stunned. > Anyway, your approach is amazing. > Melisand

Here are a few publicly posted, verifiable, unsolicited testimonials: Elaine McClung, President of Pet Rescue, Animal Comissioner Brevard Co FL, writes: Sep 9, 2000 "I ordered from Jerry a long time ago.. He was helpful and the order was filled promptly. Yes, Doggie Do Right does indeed exist. I "had" a very aggressive female Pit.. She was showing aggression not only towards Dok, Rhodesian Ridgeback, but our cats and even us. She now plays with Dok, even to the point of allowing him to take a toy or bone from her. She no longer shows any aggression towards us. She is showing some aggression towards the cats but that is down to a warning growl. It is not just my opinion that all this aggression existed before Doggie Do Right as we were advised by three vets to euthanize her. I do very much believe that DDR will help JR as I know it has helped my dogs and cats. I do think your product is a valuable tool in helping with aggression and other behavior problems. I am in Feral CatNetwork (we spay and neuter approximately 100 feral cats a month), I am also a member of a local AKC dog obedience club, member of a local AKC agility club, president of Pet Rescue, board member of the Alliance for Care and Welfare of Animals (on the board are: county commissioner, vet. rep., rep. from AKC dog club, CFA cat club, assistant County manager, head of animal control, director of two different shelters, etc.) and Space Coast Feline Network http://www.spacecoastfelinenetwork.com Thanks, Elaine, Hi Jerry, I wrote to you a week or so ago about the unit. I have since borrowed one from Elaine Mc Clung. She speaks very highly of it. So, I brought it home and plugged it in. Of course, I wanted it to come on, all the barking stop, and have every one immediately fall to the floor in little comas for a few hours. Well, after I got all 27 of them to be quiet, still no comas. But, it had only been 36 seconds at that point. So, I gave it a little longer. Still no comas. Was this really going to work? I mean, I do have an unusual situation. So, by bedtime, a few hours later. I started to notice just how many were asleep already – with their feet in the air! I started to have hope. During the night, all was calm. In the morning when I got up, only a few of them WALKED quietly to the door to go out. Not the usual evacuation. I had the unit from Sunday afternoon until Tuesday Morning. I was certainly pleased with the night effect. I wasn’t so sure about the amount of the day time effect. Until I took it back. Within half an hour, the monsters had resurfaced. I wondered if I could break into Elaine’s house and if she would notice I know another person who does dog rescue. She rescues Beagles. She has 23 in an 1100 square foot house. God bless her. She is interested to see if it will work for her. I also spoke to someone else who does cat rescue, and she is interested. The cat rescue people have monthly meetings. Maybe Elaine could give a word or two about it. So, if there are any words of advice you can send my way about the best way to use it in my case, I would appreciate it. I of course wanted to keep it on the highest setting, but don’t know if that is advised, even with my situation of so many new ones coming and (too few) going. Also, how I and others can go about getting one, etc. I think the vets should have the info in their offices. It must help dogs with separation anxiety. My vet practices homeopathic as well as traditional medicine, so I would think it would be right up her alley. Thank you. Desiree M Webber A New Leash On Life