Fleas…
Question:
Yeh, that’s the full blown Battle of the Flea mode that we used to have to do every few weeks in the summer, here. When first starting a topical, if there are many fleas, it’s a help to do a major kill-off. This way you may see barely a flea for months. If you don’t, it takes longer. I had a flea explosion at my place this year. Who knows why…. So for the first time in Years, I had to do the whole thing. I once got three bitches into rescue that had been left with fleas for who knows how long. You looked at them and they looked like thier coats were moving. UNbelievable. This was from a BYB wanna-get-rich situation; kennel dogs.. When we bathed them, the water ran red from the flea feces and fleas rinsed off in a huge black stream. All three were so anemic that the vets said it was a wonder they could stand and walk. (also had every intestinal worm available)… but no heartworm…. This was before Frontline in the US… about 10 years ago this week! Jo Wolf Martinez, Georgia
Response:
I am of the firm opinion that God developed fleas in order to allow capitalists to develop a multi-billion dollar industry for their efforts…. <sigh> They’ve sure gotten a lot of my $. Forget the brewers yeast and garlic "cure" . It doesn’t work. Forget those ultrasonic devices. They don’t work. Forget the rest of the "Natural" cures; most of them are more toxic if you goof than the topicals like Advantage or Frontline. However to get things under control promptly… Treat the environment; yard, house, vehicle. Treat the dogs using a safe-for-puppies flea shampoo. Do it roughly in this sort of order… Treat vehicle overnight, and air out first thing in the AM. In AM, treat dogs and place in vehicle in deep shade. Treat house by vacuuming well (spray insecticide into bag heavily, place in plastic bag and Seal) and discard bag. Launder dog bedding. Set out "bombs that include an insect growth regulator (IGR) as well as insecticide. Turn air-conditioning/heat OFF. Close house. Treat lawn with insecticide spray. Load humans into vehicle with dogs and take a ride… lawn treatment time + ride time = time for "bombs" to work. Return home, open house to air out. Check yard; if dry, the dogs may return to yard. Play with dogs while house airs. Dry dog bedding. The idea is that once the dogs are treated, they do not go back into an untreated area and pick up fleas. The routine was published by a Florida dog breeder amny years ago. Extra help for the house; scatter boric acid powder (Wal-Mart carries in "squirt" bottles) on all carpets and rugs, including under large furniture. Using a broom, brush into carpet and rugs. Re-treat carpet and rugs after each cleaning (after they are dry). It will last, with regular vacuuming, for about a year in carpets, but washable rugs must be re-treated after each laundering. In rooms with hardwood or tile floors, have at least one throw rug or carpet square… treated… and tucked under furniture if you don’t want it visible. Use a vet-approved spray to get dogs through the next 2-4 days, then apply topical like Advantage or Frontline. The spray is especially important if the dogs will go anywhere off the property before topical is applied. Apply topical as prescrbed by the vet (monthly… Frontline can sometimes last 2-3 months.). Treat the yard about annually in the spring just as fleas would normally appear. Have carpet cleaned as needed, but treat with boric acid powder after cleaning or annually (date from last application). The topicals have saved many gazillions of dogs (all over the world) from misery due to fleas and have possibly saved the lives of many dogs with severe flea allergies. I have discussed them with several holistic vets; they all recommend that their clients use these on their pets. They do not recommend the naturals, in my region. All of these vets work in the deep South, where we fight fleas all year. In the North, in a normal winter, you might not have to treat the dogs… BUT a warm winter like last year can leave some fleas out and reproducing, especially in the house. It takes about 10-14 days when temperatures Never get above freezing to get a good "flea kill" outside, but some fleas and flea eggs will always survive. That’s probably more than you wanted to know, but if you don’t treat "everything", the fleas are still there, ready to jump onto dogs for breakfast, lunch, dinner and egg hatching services. Jo Wolf
Response:
hmmm I dont know what kinds of fleas you have there but in Australia, hot and humid most of the time with a cool but not cold winter, if you have a very very severe flea infestation then perhaps what you have listed is the ultimate but for most people whose pets have fleas with a few in the yard and house if you use Frontline Plus on all pets and if neighbours have pets talk them into it as well then you usually get rid of your flea problem without all the additional lists of work suggested below. Then again perhaps USA fleas are harder to be rid of then Aussie ones 
Kim
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> I am of the firm opinion that God developed fleas in order to allow > capitalists to develop a multi-billion dollar industry for their > efforts…. <sigh> They’ve sure gotten a lot of my $. > Forget the brewers yeast and garlic "cure" . It doesn’t work. Forget > those ultrasonic devices. They don’t work. Forget the rest of the > "Natural" cures; most of them are more toxic if you goof than the > topicals like Advantage or Frontline. > However to get things under control promptly… > Treat the environment; yard, house, vehicle. > Treat the dogs using a safe-for-puppies flea shampoo. Do it roughly in > this sort of order… > Treat vehicle overnight, and air out first thing in the AM. In AM, > treat dogs and place in vehicle in deep shade. Treat house by vacuuming > well (spray insecticide into bag heavily, place in plastic bag and Seal) > and discard bag. Launder dog bedding. Set out "bombs that include an > insect growth regulator (IGR) as well as insecticide. Turn > air-conditioning/heat OFF. Close house. Treat lawn with insecticide > spray. Load humans into vehicle with dogs and take a ride… lawn > treatment time + ride time = time for "bombs" to work. Return home, > open house to air out. Check yard; if dry, the dogs may return to yard. > Play with dogs while house airs. Dry dog bedding. The idea is that > once the dogs are treated, they do not go back into an untreated area > and pick up fleas. The routine was published by a Florida dog breeder > amny years ago. > Extra help for the house; scatter boric acid powder (Wal-Mart carries in > "squirt" bottles) on all carpets and rugs, including under large > furniture. Using a broom, brush into carpet and rugs. Re-treat carpet > and rugs after each cleaning (after they are dry). It will last, with > regular vacuuming, for about a year in carpets, but washable rugs must > be re-treated after each laundering. In rooms with hardwood or tile > floors, have at least one throw rug or carpet square… treated… and > tucked under furniture if you don’t want it visible. > Use a vet-approved spray to get dogs through the next 2-4 days, then > apply topical like Advantage or Frontline. The spray is especially > important if the dogs will go anywhere off the property before topical > is applied. Apply topical as prescrbed by the vet (monthly… Frontline > can sometimes last 2-3 months.). Treat the yard about annually in the > spring just as fleas would normally appear. Have carpet cleaned as > needed, but treat with boric acid powder after cleaning or annually > (date from last application). > The topicals have saved many gazillions of dogs (all over the world) > from misery due to fleas and have possibly saved the lives of many dogs > with severe flea allergies. I have discussed them with several holistic > vets; they all recommend that their clients use these on their pets. > They do not recommend the naturals, in my region. All of these vets > work in the deep South, where we fight fleas all year. In the North, in > a normal winter, you might not have to treat the dogs… BUT a warm > winter like last year can leave some fleas out and reproducing, > especially in the house. It takes about 10-14 days when temperatures > Never get above freezing to get a good "flea kill" outside, but some > fleas and flea eggs will always survive. > That’s probably more than you wanted to know, but if you don’t treat > "everything", the fleas are still there, ready to jump onto dogs for > breakfast, lunch, dinner and egg hatching services. > Jo Wolf
Response:
Its probably not what you are after as it is a chemical but Advantage is safe to use on puppies from a few days old and is very effective. Kim (someone that has tried many natural flea control methods before giving up and turning to advantage or frontline with no fleas since).
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Hi, > I have 5 adult dogs and 1 – four week old puppy. They all have fleas. I am > looking for a natural flea control method that will be safe to use around > the puppy. We have already started with a good house cleaning and baths for > everyone. For right now I am bathing all the dogs in a herbal pet shampoo. > I just need some advice, what to use for washing the dogs, any supplements > they can take, such as garlic and how often to bath the dogs and puppy. > Thanks > -Steve > http://www.newsfeed.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! > —–= Over 100,000 Newsgroups – Unlimited Fast Downloads – 19 Servers
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Response:
Hi, I have 5 adult dogs and 1 – four week old puppy. They all have fleas. I am looking for a natural flea control method that will be safe to use around the puppy. We have already started with a good house cleaning and baths for everyone. For right now I am bathing all the dogs in a herbal pet shampoo. I just need some advice, what to use for washing the dogs, any supplements they can take, such as garlic and how often to bath the dogs and puppy. Thanks -Steve http://www.newsfeed.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! —–= Over 100,000 Newsgroups – Unlimited Fast Downloads – 19 Servers =—–
Response:
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